Older-Unit Care · Storms
After a Windstorm Outage: Bringing an Older Unit Back Up
A winter windstorm on the island can leave a Sub-Zero without power for long enough that the order you do things in decides what you keep.
- Written by
- Bjorn Aaltonen
- Trade
- Refrigeration technician, 15 yrs
- Holds
- EPA 608 certified
- Dated
Why the order matters here
Food in a Sub-Zero does not spoil the moment the power fails. It spoils when the cold stored in the food and the cabinet has leaked away, and the doors are how most of it leaks. So the first hour of an outage matters more than the last: a household that keeps the doors shut from the start buys the whole cabinet time, while one that keeps checking on it spends that time early.
The second decision is what the unit meets when the power comes back. After a storm the supply can come back in fits before it settles, and switching the breaker off during the outage keeps an older refrigerator out of that.
How long each side holds
Two sets of figures are worth knowing, and they measure different things. Sub-Zero’s figure is for an empty cabinet: it typically takes about three hours for the air to rise above 45°F in the fresh-food side and above 20°F in the freezer. The FDA’s figures are for a loaded appliance with the door kept shut: about four hours for the refrigerator, about 48 hours for a full freezer and about 24 for one that is half full. The difference is the food itself, which holds cold far better than air.
Neither figure tells you what happened in your kitchen. A thermometer in each compartment does, which is why the procedure below leans on one.
When it comes back but something is off
An older unit that has sat warm and then restarts has a lot of heat to pull out at once, and it will run hard for a while. That is normal. Warm air that stays warm, a compressor that never starts, or a service light that returns after the condenser check is not, and it is worth ringing before you restock it.
The procedure, step by step
- You will want
- An appliance thermometer for each compartment · Flashlight
- And to hand
- Bags of ice, if the outage runs long
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Keep both doors shut from the moment the lights go
Every opening lets out cold that the unit cannot replace until power returns. Sub-Zero's own advice for a loss of power or a brownout is to keep refrigerator and freezer doors closed as much as possible. Plan meals from a cool box, not from the Sub-Zero.
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Switch the unit off at its breaker while the power is out
The emergency guidance at Ready.gov is to turn off or disconnect appliances before the supply comes back, so a surge on return cannot damage them. A touch control panel is dead in an outage, so the circuit breaker is the switch you can actually reach. Find it by flashlight and leave it off.
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Stretch the cold with ice if the outage drags on
Sub-Zero suggests adding bags of ice to prolong the life of the food. Have them ready before you open a door, put them in quickly on top of the food, and close it again. One short opening is better than several small ones.
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Wait for a steady supply, then switch back on
Lights that flicker on and off again are not the end of it. Once the supply has held, turn the breaker back on. If a Classic control panel then reads OFF, touch POWER to start the unit. Leave the doors closed while it gets going.
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Give it time before deciding anything is wrong
A unit that stays silent at first may simply be defrosting. The older 500-series guide says a unit that is not running may be in defrost, and to wait thirty minutes to see whether it restarts. Other models give no figure, so a similar short wait is sensible before you worry.
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Read a thermometer, not the display
Once the compartments have had time to pull down, open each one briefly and read the appliance thermometer. The FDA wants the fresh-food side at 40°F at most and the freezer no warmer than 0°F. Decide on the food by the published rules, not by how it looks or smells.
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Check the service indicator on a Classic
If the SERVICE indicator is lit, the Classic guide says to turn the unit off with POWER, make sure the condenser area is clean, then turn it back on. If the indicator is still lit, or the unit stays warm or will not start, that is where the owner stops.
That is where an owner stops. Past this point the work means panels off, live wiring or the sealed system, and it is ours: Driftwood Appliance Service, (206) 785-2960.